From: “Frank-Rainer Grahl”
Newsgroups: rec.games.pinball

Checking fuses

CPU

taking out cpu

replacing battery holder
replacing 0 Ohm resistors for language settings with Dip Switch
New rom version.

PDB:

Replace burned GI haeaders

DMD Controller:

Replace 5W 4K7 resistor at the bottom of the board and mount it farther away from
the PCB. If it looks burned I replace the whole section.
The resistor is monted too near the pcb and is in my opionion responsible for 50%
of all driver failures. Get’s too hot, burns the boards and other parts around
suffer because of this.

From: pinlicious
Newsgroups: rec.games.pinball
Subject: Re: Decal Storage Question

On Sun, 19 Jun 2005 06:49:40 GMT, “Michael”
wrote:

>
> What’s the consensus on storing cabinet decals? Is it safe to leave them
>rolled up for a long time? I suppose it’s probably better to have them
>stored flat in between 2 pieces of glass or something, but being space
>challenged makes this difficult.
>
>Thanks,
>Michael
>

definately want to keep them flat.

if you ever bought a nib game or fridge, use the box sides to keep the
decals pinched, flat, and clean.

you keep them rolled, you are asking for problems.

can always store them under a bed, couch, pins, or even up in basement
ceiling tiles(not near lights)

Pinlicious ( …there is no spoon.)

From: Ben
Newsgroups: rec.games.pinball

On 18 Jun 2005 14:29:19 -0700, “Alex” <> wrote:

>I want to mask off some of my cabinet before I paint it. What is the
>best type of tape to use when doing this. I figure the blue painters
>tape might not let me get around edges correctly without bunching up.
>This would allow paint underneath when I paint. Any ideas?

3M automotive refinish ‘233′ masking tape, just finished using a bunch
on my Creature cabinet project. Well actually my brother (restores
vettes) uses it… I just “borrow” rolls from him! Works great.
Whatever you do don’t cheap out with masking tape, there’s a huge
difference between the good stuff and the crap like “Tuck” tape that
is thin, gooey, and sticks like cement if you leave it on for more
than a day.

Info here:
http://products3.3m.com/catalog/us/en001/auto_marine_aero/marine/node_GSTJ7LC17Jbe/root_GST1T4S9TCgv/vroot_GS4JK4Y166ge/gvel_94R0HRQVZXgl/theme_us_marine_3_0/command_AbcPageHandler/output_html
or
http://tinyurl.com/98jbl

From: “Otto”
Newsgroups: rec.games.pinball

All easy problems as everyone has said.

Step back from it and relax.

Google the lock kick out.

http://www.google.com/advanced_search?hl=en

Learn how to adjust/check/repair switches. Go into switch edges test, pull
out the manual and go to the switch matrix in inside the rear cover, and
learn. Notice the display on the dmd is the same as the matrix in the
manual. Play around with it. Learn it. Find the slot switch and play with
it. Check the wires on the switch. Activate by hand and then with the ball.
Adjust. Repair as necessary.

Learn how to rebuild flippers.

http://marvin3m.com/wpc/index3.htm#flip

You can do a lot for the flipper strength by simply replacing the coil
sleeves and cleaning up the plunger and resoldering the lugs if any of the
wires look poorly connected. Finish by adjusting the eos switch so that it
closes right at the end of the flipper travel. Check for no mechanical
binding.

Settle in with Marvin and turn you head into a sponge.

http://marvin3m.com/wpc/index.htm

Lots of good stuff

Take each problem by itself, one at a time.

It will be well worth your effort as you solve each problem.

Since I’ve had a couple of Emails this week, asking about my carpet
protectors found here,
http://usergallery.myhomegameroom.com/gallery/album01/P1010020_001

I thought I’d share the “manufacturing” process one more time for those
that may have missed it before.

3/4″ oak, or any type wood you’d like, 4″ hole saw, 1 1/4″ forstner bit
and a 1′4″ bullnose router bit w/ router.

Once the 4″ disk is cut out, drill a blind hole half way through the
disk with the forstner bit. This is for the leg leveler to sit in.
Router the edges, sand and finish to taste.

A big drill press works great for making these as the depth for the
blind holes can be set so that they all end up the same depth. It also
makes the cutting with the hole saw a piece o’ cake.

The drill press I use is hidden in the following pic of my buddy’s
cabinet shop.
http://usergallery.myhomegameroom.com/gallery/album22/P1010003

Can you locate it in all that mess? :-)

Bryan (CARGPB14) http://usergallery.myhomegameroom.com/gallery/bspins

From RGP:
From: bogart
Subject: Re: Epoxy repairs to playfields

That certainly wouldn’t hurt, but I don’t think it’s really necessary. I
find the stuff hangs on like grim death if you prep the area properly.
Use a wood rasp or very coarse sandpaper to remove any loose, splintery
bits and make sure you’re down to solid wood. Then clean the area with
something that will remove all traces of grease, oil, and wax. I use
Naphtha, a highly refined type of paint thinner. Rub the area well with
a cloth damp with the paint thinner, soak some in. When this dries, go
for the putty. When done like this, I’ve sanded, chiseled, and drilled
the putty with no hint of any looseness.

bogart
www.pinrestore.com

Christopher Hutchin’s Shop
Some Old EM’s

From: “Mamushka”
Newsgroups: rec.games.pinball
Subject: TAF magnet fuse follow up and some Rudy ideas

I have loaded the pictures of the fuse holders installed on my TAF on
John Wart’s website.
http://usergallery.myhomegameroom.com/gallery/mamushka A few people
wanted me to post pictures of the fuse holders that I installed on my
game.
To recap my last post:
My game is at my sisters house, transistor Q1 under the playfield
shorted out, causing the left magnet to stay on (no one noticed). I
went over to her house to do some routine repairs and found the dead
magnet (fuse blown) and no magnet burn. I replaced Q1 and the fuse and
all is good again. (The fuses were 3A s.b.)

And now for the Rudy ideas:
My Funhouse is also at my sister’s house and Rudy broke his
horizontal eye link. I fixed it using (more or less) the information
provided by Greg Menacho (just Google his name for the post). I started
thinking about what causes this link to break and I noticed that when
Rudy’s eyes open, the horizontal link is the “stop” that takes the
impact. This has to be bad for the link, so I added a small plate to
help absorb the shock. I also noticed that the link on his eyelids got
hammered when his eyes closed, so I added another plate with a little
foam to try and absorb the shock. Will it help, who knows, but it makes
me feel a little better. Pictures are on John Wart’s site also.
I also notices that Rudy’s eyeballs were getting a little worn (where
the metal links go through the holes) I filled the holes with epoxy and
redrilled them, no more slop (sorry no pictures).

Mamushka

From RGP:
Posted by: The_Black_Knight

All,

Although this has been previously covered, it needs revisited for new
collectors. Here is a through list of excluded terms to get down to the “meat and potatoes” of pinball machines, parts, and backglasses to keep your games
healthy.

The excluded words max out the search capabilities of Ebay’s search line.
Feel free to add or subtract as you wish.

I have been able to get the returning items under 15 pages, at about 700+ items. Really helps you browse with a purpose, especially for true RARE parts.

Also, by including this with either a zip code or mileage distance you can
really zone in one machines in your area, without doing some “broad” city
search.

Anyway here is my list:

pinball
-flyer
-flyers
-rubber
-fuse
-upgrade
-manual
-tabletop
-bingo
-hand
-toy
-magnet
-pc
-cd
-virtual
-pachinko
-own
-schematic
-balls
-manuals
-schematics
-games
-ball
-plastic
-set -mug
-sling
-slingshot
-novus
-mod
-target
-bulb
-bulbs
-guide
-door
-plastics
-keytag
-keychain
-promo
-display

I Started collecting pins in December 2003. It started with just one. I was warned by Dan Gutchess that “You can’t get just one”. Well, he was right. I now have way too many ;) It’s a semi-addiction. Here’s a list/Photos of the Herd, along with any info about them.

taf/IMG_3563
The Addams Family
Condition: Good
Bought: Denver CO.
Notes: Pride of my Collection, First pin to shop.
Status: Not For Sale

FishTalesRestoration/rot26647
FishTales
Condition: Crappy going on Good
Bought: Rhode Island
Notes: Second pin Bought. I’ve put way more into this pin that it’s worth. It’s coming up to nice condition. Lots of restoration experience. Bought it for too much, but got it because of Gordon
Status: Not for sale, unless I find a HUO game.

TwilightZoneRestoration/rot52328
Twilight Zone
Condition: Some wear and tear, but good deal.
Bought: Portugual
Notes: Third Pin bought. Insert wear. Bought some decals to replace. Trying to decide if I want to clearcoat the playfield.
Status: Keeper

Pinbot/IMG_4464
PinBot
Condition: Cabinet is good. Playfield has some wear in bumper area
Bought: Cheyenne, Wy
Notes: Bought in group buy
Restoration to do: Take off Mylar. Shop, repaint (do what Cliffy is doing.
Status: Willing to Trade/Sell

StarTrek25thPinball/IMG_4716
Star Trek: The 25th Anniversary Edition
Condition: Cabinet is good. Playfield has major wear. This is a Project Game, much like the FishTales. I will be scrounging up parts to make it live again. Played it as a kid.
Bought: Denver, CO
Notes: Bought Via Craigslist. Extensive Mylar, parts all over. Extensive PF damage
Restoration to do: Take off Mylar. Shop, repaint Get new boards.
Status: Willing to Trade/Sell

JohhnyM/IMG_4340
Dealers Choice
Condition: Cabinet is ok. Playfield has major wear. This is a Project Game, much like the FishTales. First EM I have owned. Will be playing around with restoration when I get a chance.
Bought: Cheyenne, Wy
Restoration: Dunno, First EM
Notes: Bought with Johnny M.
Status: Willing to Trade/Sell

JohhnyM/IMG_4304
Johnny Mnemonic
Condition: Cabinet is Good. Playfield is good. According to the operator, this pin had the typical problems with the hand in the back.
Bought: Cheyenne, Wy
Restoration: Shop Out, Toy Fix.
Notes: Meh movie, Good pin
Status: Trade/Sell

NewGames/IMG_4648
The Shadow
Condition: Cabinet is Good. Playfield is good. Some dirt, but with a good shop this pin will shine.
Bought: Cheyenne, Wy
Restoration: Shop Out, Perhaps new decals for head (Typical wear)
Notes: Meh movie, Good pin
Status: Keeper

Sunset/IMG_5344
Bram Stokers Dracula (BSD)
Condition: Cabinet is Sun Worn. Playfield is good. Some dirt, but with a good shop this pin will shine.
Bought: Cheyenne, Wy
Restoration: Shop Out, Some plastic repair, perhaps a Cliffy protector, reapply decals.
Notes: Cool Mulitball
Status: Dunno, may let it go.

Sunset/IMG_5349
NBA Fastbreak
Condition: Cabinet is Good. Playfield is good. Some dirt, but with a good shop this pin will shine.
Bought: Cheyenne, Wy
Restoration: Shop Out, Some Backbox repair
Notes: None Right now.
Status: Willing to Trade/Sell.

Still Waiting on photos for

Doctor Who
Condition: Cabinet is Good. Playfield is good. Some dirt, but with a good shop this pin will shine.
Bought: Cheyenne, Wy
Restoration: Shop Out, Fix Grounding Problems!
Notes: None Right now.
Status: Keeper.

In reading over It’s Only Pinball I found some good gems. Some of which will make it to the links on the side.

I also found some good guides as to

1) A nice For Sale Listing
2) His Definition of Shopped
3) His Terms of Sale

Good Stuff.

Taken from Various Posters on RGP:

1 New rubber
2 New balls
3 All bulbs must work, although when I sell a machine to someone, I
replace every bulb.
4 Playfield cleaned, plastics cleaned, repaired, replaced.
5 All coils tested, all modes of game tested.
6 legs polished,new non scratch feet/casters installed, cabinet cleaned
and waxed.
7 All “toys” checked and tested.
8. All assemblies taken apart and cleaned and the area on the playfield
around said assemblies cleaned.
9. New coil sleeves.
10. Flippers rebuilt.
11. GI header pins/connectors rebuilt as necessary.
12. Ramps removed, cleaned and polished.
13. Translite removed and cleaned.

Thanks to David Anderson & Mike Schudel

From my Restoration Tips (gleaned from Rec.Games.Pinball)

(Bryan Kelly)
Newsgroups: rec.games.pinball
Subject: Re: cleaning the metal on machines

Here’s what I do Steve. Set the bar in the laundry tub and spray both sides with Bleche Wite. Let sit for a couple minutes then Scrub with a brush. Rinse thoroughly with water. Most of the crud should come right off. If not, repeat.

The top side of the bar should not be shiney. It should have a “grain” to it running length wise. You should be able to see this. Take 220 grit sandpaper and sand length wise. Basically, sand the whole thing going with the grain. I then take a 3M red sanding pad and finish it up. This is simply finer then the 220 grit paper. Not really necessary, but that’s just me. :-) Make sure you sand straight.

This same process can be done on the side rails and metal guides on the
playfield. It’s been covered here before.

I then put a coat of car wax on it and I’m done. :-)

Bryan (Goose Lurker, CARGPB14)