From: “D Peeples” <>
Newsgroups: rec.games.pinball
Subject: OT – Kinda – MAME in a STTNG cab.

Found this interesting.

http://home.comcast.net/~ataritoday/wsb/html/view.cgi-home.html-.html

Dave

From: “Barry – NY (Backglass@)” <>
Newsgroups: rec.games.pinball
Subject: Re: Handtruck type/technique to move pins up 1 flight of stairs… ?

I second the Appliance Dolly. Move my games by myself, with the wife
as a spotter.

$99 at Home Depot.

From: Robert Winter
Newsgroups: rec.games.pinball
Subject: HOWTO: Cabinet decals using the dry method

Since I’ve documented my method of applying decals using the “wet”
technique, I thought it was only fair to do the same thing now that I’ve
used the “dry” method a few times.

I’m by no means an expert, but this technique has worked extremely well
for me.

http://www.robertwinter.com/pinball/restorations/ft/backbox/index.html

Robert
—–
http://www.robertwinter.com

From:
Newsgroups: rec.games.pinball
Subject: Re: Stolen Pin – Keep your eyes open

Yup, good idea, I was thinking of the same thing. On a few really high end
refurbishing jobs, I put some info in the unobtrusive places, like metal
plate behind the boards in the backbox, and inside cabinet back of the
machine, sometimes a small sticker far away underneath the playfield. Not
specifically because of stealing per se, just a call sign. it sure will come
handy, though, as he can recognize his machine and some unique markings that
only he can point out. I sure hope he finds his machine, that sucks.

Also that thief is pretty stupid, why Flintstones over Indianapolis 500?

Adi
www.txpinball.com

From: adi
Newsgroups: rec.games.pinball

What Mark said. DO NOT TRUST YOUR BANK TELLER dispensing advice. They
don’t know anything about scams and what they do, and they make a
little more than 7,8 bucks an hour. “Verbal” assurances do not work
with banks if they hit your with bogus claims and “your teller told me
so” won’t work e.g. Sorry, she was wrong/missinformed/ill
advised/inexperienced etc..

They will freeze your accounts (that is checkign and savings) until you
cough up the money.

Your bank is required by law to make the funds deposited to you within
2 business days. They do not have enough time in that timeframe to hit
the issuing bank about the funds owed to them (that takes about between
a week (5 business days) and 10 business days. After that you should be
fine. Same goes for personal checks and cashier’s checks.

If you want to know sooner, US Post Office issued money orders should
be scam proof. Same goes with the bank to bank money transfer, they
have to have the funds beforehands to initiate it and you get your
money within hours.

TO summarize, wait 10 days before you ship a machine, unless it’s a
bank to bank transfer, cash or USPS money order.

Adi
www.txpinball.com

From: rondondo
Newsgroups: rec.games.pinball
Subject: Re: TZ Observations After 3 Months of Ownership

I just finished another TZ and I will admit that of all of the games I
shop, and it’s a LOT of games, so far, TZ always takes the longest.
Once the shop job is complete, you can count on 2-3 hours of tuning on the game to get it playing correctly. TZ is a complicated game no doubt! Here are the things I always need to tweak…

After leveling the game, level the mini-playfield.
Add a magnet on the diverter carriage.
Tweak the carriage to help with the powerball.
Sometimes add washers under the mount screw for the carriage wireform.
Tweak the lock shot deflector wall to prevent bounce-outs.
Tweak the slot kick-out to properly put ejected balls on the flipper.
Add a piece of velcro to the metal wall above the rocket kicker to slow the ball and prevent bounce-outs.
Tweak the trajectory of the rocket kicker wall to provide a clean shot into the hitchhiker tunnel.
Tweak the auto-plunger to get clean shots around the loop.

Here are mods and upgrades that I always do…

New updated slot scoop with slot target reinforcement.
New slot target
Reinforced clock target
LED board in the clock
New clock housing if drilled
Piano mod
Gumballs
Speaker upgrade (whether you do a Pinball Pro or do-it-yourself, makes
a big difference in a TZ!)

Just my thoughts.

From: “The_Black_Knight”
Newsgroups: rec.games.pinball
Subject: Re: FT Topper is Killing Me

There are several ways, to quite the noise, but still have the effect.
1) Install a rubber stopper to the tip of the nylon plunger (reduced noise)
2) Install a weaker coil (with reduced effect)
3) Install a blue or black rebound pad used for ramps on the backside of the fish tail (reduced noise)

If it is still too loud, unplugging it is probably the best answer.
I have done this with my current and previous FT, and for certain knockers such as TAF.

Best Regards,

–
“The_Black_Knight”

The Washington State Pinball Stronghold
“A Fortress Protecting the Silver Ball”

www.geocities.com/pinball_jack

From: “Chris Munson”
Newsgroups: rec.games.pinball
Subject: BIG TIME CABINETS – MANY UPDATES

Hello all:

Been a busy summer so far, with hot temps in Texas (near 100 degrees several days) and plenty of activity at BTC. As usual, we continue to produce cabinets for a number of customers, and have some exciting news to share beyond the current lineups. In no particular order:

1) NEW offerings – available immediately, we are now able to produce TZ, Whitewater, Funhouse, AFM, and EATPM cabinets. Folks, send us your artwork and get a discount on the cabs!

2) “OLD” offerings – We have been able to send a great deal of time recently on development of the greatly anticipated early Bally cabinets. In fact, we will have our first prototype “KISS” style cabinet complete this week! We should begin taking orders for these cabinets in August; please stay tuned for details. NOTE: KISS will NOT be the only variety offered, there will be other titles as well.

3) FUTURE offerings – Late “EBD/Fathom” style cabs will follow closely behind the early cabs. Again, stay tuned for details.

4) IMMEDIATE offerings – We currently have excess stock on two items, and would like to move these units:

a) White water cab – this cab is complete, boxed and ready to go, and is being sold as a “second”. Why? The start button hole is slightly above the factory location (this has been remedied), but this one slipped through. The decal is offset as a result, with the start button being towards the top of the decal circle. This cab is beautiful, and if you can overlook a minor misalignment, we will knock off the cost of shipping. Write/phone me for details.

b) Funhouse cab – nearing completion, this cab was developed as the first example with an enamel painting process (as opposed to the laquer we normally use). I will also sell this as a “second”, in that the front panel decal has a VERY slight crease in it (the decal itself was problematic), and the amount of overspay in the cabinet is a bit more than typical. Again, this will ship for free; write/phone for details.

5) WEBSITE – yes, the website still suffers from issues that need to be resolved. AS of today, we have secured assistance to clear up these issues and make the interface more user-friendly. IN PARTICULAR, we will be posting pics to the “NEWS” section once the site is fixed, so that you will be able to see what is actually going on as far as development is concerned. Stay tuned!

Thanks all for your continued support, the last half of this year will
indeed be remarkable as far as new products emerge. Looking forward to working with you folks, meeting our needs. I will be announcing more often as things begin to surface.

Chris Munson
Big Time Cabinets

From: “Gerry Manis”
Newsgroups: rec.games.pinball
Subject: WMS Coin Doors

Hi, all.

I just got off the phone with Carson at Pro Source (Carson moved on from Entropy, but still sells their coin doors out of the new
business). He said that they would be getting in coin doors again in
10 days. These are the two slot coin doors, prewired, without the coin mechs. The prices, while they are higher than before, are still better than anything else I’ve found:

$50 per coin door, with a minimum of 4 (You may be able to negotiate a lower minimum with a higher per unit price, not sure).

He can be reached at (877) 519-5900.

Hope this helps somebody,

Gerry Mani

Some of the best (ie cheapest) parts flyer has hit the web. Good Deal on DMD’s and Bridge Rectifiers. I may have to order myself some…

From: “Sojourner353″
Newsgroups: rec.games.pinball
Subject: Tools really handy if Shopping Pins

Hi all,

Just go a set of IDC Punchdown Tools (.100 & .156) today and these are really handy if shopping Pins.

I had a few IDC Connectors fall off during the removal and
reinstallation of my Machines Wiring Harnesses and used a Screwdriver to put the Wires back in temporarily, it wasn’t nice to say the least so I sourced these Punch Down Tools and they worked great.

I also repunched all the IDC Connectors in my Machine and it tool about 20min to do and nearly all of them were loose.

Just thought I would pass this on as they have helped me out big time.

Kevin

From:
Newsgroups: rec.games.pinball
Subject: Re: Addams Family Magnet fuses

It’s TIP 36C shorting, leaving the coil indefinitely on, then it gets so hot
it browns the playfield. Those magnets are controlled by a small 3 TIP36C
board just underneath the left flipper. I have an unfinished page about it
here: http://www.txpinball.com/taf_magnet_board_fix.html

In all my Addams Families, for some weird reason it is ALWAYS the left
magnet (by the clouds) shorting, never the other 2, no clue why.

Adi
www.txpinball.com

From: “Lloyd Olson” <>
Newsgroups: rec.games.pinball
Subject: Re: WPC Display went out…

Power off, open up the backbox, check that all the connectors are on tight
on all the boards. Your opening and closing may have loosened something.

Then look over the area in general, make sure the grounding straps and
anything else back there isn’t pushing up against boards and shorting
things.

If you still have DMD problems, try reseating the ribbon cables for it from
the cpu, to the DMD driver board, to the DMD.

If super charger is still out, start checking fuses, power off remove and
check with an ohm meter. LTG :)

From: “Cliffy” <>
Newsgroups: rec.games.pinball
Subject: Re: how to – remove wire guides from playfield?

I use rail nippers, otherwise known as flush cut end nippers. They work
especially well on the snubbers that are down to the wood. Do your
clearing BEFORE you put in the wire guides. If they have loose holes
dab a little elmers in the hole first.

Cliffy
A passion forpinball!
www.passionforpinball.com

From: “pinballjim” <>
Newsgroups: rec.games.pinball
Subject: Re: Spray Paint the chrome legs?

Use Rustoleum Hammer Finish Black. It’s fairly tough, and if you get a
scratch you can very easily shoot the scratch with a fresh shot of
paint and the touchup will be invisible.

http://www.geocities.com/pinballaggie/stargate/legs.html

etc etc