From: “Bryan Kelly” <>
Newsgroups: rec.games.pinball
Subject: MM restore complete Pics are up.

Well, another one joins the herd……and this one ain’t goin
anywhere anytime soon. :-)

I took plenty of “under the hood” pics just for Gary. I still say
what’s under there is as important as what’s on top.

http://usergallery.myhomegameroom.com/gallery/bspins?page=2

You can also see pics of the cabinet prep and decal installation in
albims on the same page.

Allow me to thank the following people for products or services.

BAA
Marco
PBR
Pinball Life (I like to spread my parts buying around.)

Scot at Pinrestore for the great rivet press and other hard to find
tools.

Allen at Treasurecove for the great back board decal and all the
restore tips he’s been willing to share. (Bleche Wite is your
friend.)

Jeff at Classic Arcade for the shop out decals.

Chris Hutchins for the beautiful touchup and clearcoat job and the
unbelievably fast turn around time.

Darin Jacobs for the cab decals. (Wished I had bought them when they
were on sale.)

Chris at Big Time Cabinets for the warning text silk-screening.
Clive at The Cauldron…….oh wait, I didn’t need Clive this time.
Well, thanks for being there when I “do” need you, Clive.

All the guys on RGP that are willing to share their experiences,
techniques, pics, etc. I’ve learned a lot from you.

And finally, my buddy Glen for the use of his “what a shop should not
look like” shop and the Grain Belt Premium.

Time to clean the shop and get ready for the next one.

Next up…….WHITE WATER!!!!! Yee Haa!!!!

From: “PT” <>
Newsgroups: rec.games.pinball
Subject: Re: Heatsinks for BR1 and BR2 on WPC games

Have you tried PBR? The part number is 01-10572 (I think). Its a
tough size to find. The tall caps to the side keep you from using a
larger sink and you don’t want a smaller sink. I looked around a few
years ago to try to find a bigger, better heat sink and could not find
one for a reasonable price.

You could always get a big old sink from an dead stereo or something,
cut it to size and tap for screw. Make sure the fins align vertically.

Good luck, let us know if you find something good. Whatever you find,
be sure to use heat sink compound…

John

From: “Lloyd Olson” <>
Newsgroups: rec.games.pinball
Subject: Re: lock down bar

You might consider just inserting carriage bolts in the holes so you don’t
have an unsightly bar across the front and the holes are filled. Truck Stop
didn’t come from the factory with one, so what ever an operator bolted on
the front would probably look home made and crude. LTG :)

From: Rick Swanson <>
Newsgroups: rec.games.pinball
Subject: Tech: Simple Shadow Wireform Switch Fix

My Shadow has the problem that when you
shoot the left Phurba ramp the right
side wireform switch doesn’t always
register that the ramp has been made.
The problem is caused by the fact that a
well hit ball will fly over the top of
the switch arm. Here is a picture of the
switch I’m talking about.

http://webpages.charter.net/rswanson3354/SRBefore.JPG

Consequently, I took one of those micro
switches that comes with a “bend it
yourself” wire switch arm and configured
the wire arm so that a ball traveling
down the wireform must come in contact
with the switch arm. The micro switch
has a very heavy wire arm (darn near a
bicycle spoke) and it should keep its
shape for a long time. Here is what the
switch looks like after I put the bends
in the arm.

http://webpages.charter.net/rswanson3354/SRSwitch.JPG

This next picture is what the switch
looks like installed in the wireform.
The vertical portion of the switch arm
pretty much sits in the center of the
wireform channel. No ball is getting
past *that* switch arm!

http://webpages.charter.net/rswanson3354/SRInstalled.JPG

Here is what it looks like reinstalled
in the game.

http://webpages.charter.net/rswanson3354/SRInstalled.JPG

This was a very simple fix to this very
aggravating problem.

I wanted to post this simple fix in the
event others were having this same problem.

Rick Swanson

From:
Newsgroups: rec.games.pinball
Subject: Re: forget milk - got target foam?

Weather stripping commonly found in Home Depot is just fine for this. Cit to
size and peel away. The key here is prep. You need to clean and sand a bit
the surface of the target back before you apply it to get the old crap off.

Sometimes if it sat a long time on the shelf, the backing adhesive of the
foam will be really weak. In that case, add a drop of super glue and apply.
Voila. There is your new target foam.

Same thing with the bottom of the lockdown bar, but here of course you use a
wider strip. Best of luck.
Adi
www.txpinball.com

From: “Bryan Kelly” <>
Newsgroups: rec.games.pinball
Subject: Re: Ramp regraining question for our Top Notch Restoration Experts like Bryan Kelly and Company

Tell ya what, Mike, you’ll do the job a lot faster and end with the
same result if you start with 120 grit or so. Someone here, not to
long ago, said they start with 80 grit. Doesn’t really make a whole
lot of difference as long as you work your way up.

I use 120 grit, then 220 then I finish them up with a red 3M sanding
pad. No Novus or the like, just sand paper. Experiment next time you
do one and you’ll see the difference.

I don’t think I’ve ever spent more then an hour or so on any pin I’ve
done. And that includes waxing them when I’m done. :-)

Recently I had a chance to go and see the beginnings of the Pinball Hall of Fame and meet Tim Arnolds in Las Vegas.

Tim was Kind enough to let me take photos.

Originally I was going to put individual photos here, but I’d just be printing a lot of photos. So if you’d like to see photos got to the pinball museum gallery site.

Video Here

From: “Mamushka” <>
Newsgroups: rec.games.pinball
Subject: TAF magnet fuse mod works.

This is just empirical data but it looks like the TAF magnet fuse mod
works (I Googled and could find no one that verified it functioned as
planned). My games are on loan to my brothers and sister. I went over
to my sister’s house to fix some issues on my FH and TAF. After the
repairs I went through all of the solenoid tests, no left magnet.
Checked the inline fuse that I added about three years ago and it is
blown. Go to replace it with the game in attract mode and can hear the
magnet kick on, guess it’s time for a couple of transistors but
thankfully no magnet burn. I had a 3A s.b. in place (I think it’s all
I had at the time) I am going to replace them with 2A s.b. and see if
they work. I would recommend to everyone with a TAF to add the magnet
fuses, I believed that they saved my playfield.
As long as I’m on my soapbox here I’ll also suggest remote battery
holders. Last month I had a new baby monitor quit after three days,
checked the batteries and one of the brand new Energizer batteries had
leaked all over the place. By the next week all of my games had remote
battery holders in them.

From: Robert Winter <>
Newsgroups: rec.games.pinball
Subject: HOWTO: Cabinet decals using the dry method

Since I’ve documented my method of applying decals using the “wet”
technique, I thought it was only fair to do the same thing now that I’ve
used the “dry” method a few times.

I’m by no means an expert, but this technique has worked extremely well
for me.

http://www.robertwinter.com/pinball/restorations/ft/backbox/index.html

Robert
—–
http://www.robertwinter.com

From: “Bryan Kelly” <>
Newsgroups: rec.games.pinball
Subject: Re: HOWTO: Cabinet decals using the dry method

Not much interest in this thread but I’ll share my ideas anyway.

http://usergallery.myhomegameroom.com/gallery/album41

Pics are pretty self explanatory.

Bryan (CARGPB14) http://usergallery.myhomegameroom.com/gallery/bspins

From: “Bryan Kelly” <>
Newsgroups: rec.games.pinball
Subject: MM cabinet prep pics are up

I’m working on my MM restoration and thought I’d take some pics of what
I do when restoring a cabinet. Most of the pics are pretty self
explanatory.

Sanding is done with 80 grit then followed up with 120. That’s as fine
as I’ve found I need to go. Black paint is Painters Touch semi gloss
found at Home Depot. I use 5 cans on the cabinet and 2 cans for the
head.

I prefer to use bondo as the filler but other materials can be used.

Wear a long sleeve shirt and glove or you’ll be scrubbing all day to
get the overspray off your arm. A good dust mask is also highly
recommended or you’ll be blowing black boogers for a week.

Total time for the whole process was 8 hours and 4 beers. Of course
the beer drinking didn’t start until noon……that’s the house rules.
:-)

One other thing, do like I do and do this in a friends shop so you
don’t mess up your own. :-)

http://usergallery.myhomegameroom.com/gallery/bspins?page=2

Just click on MM Cab prep. You can click on MM restoration and see how
I install the decals dry.

And no, Lloyd, I’ve had no flames……yet. :-)

Bryan (CARGPB14) http://usergallery.myhomegameroom.com/gallery/bspins