by Chris — published on January 8th, 2006
From: “Karl”
Newsgroups: rec.games.pinball
Subject: Re: PF airbrushing light colors?
Karl wrote:
>I’m using the waterbased acrylic latex paint to spray
> with the correct retarder and flow addative (thinner, not just water)
Hi Group.
I was asked a few questions about this so I’ll past the info here for
research purposes, hope it helps down the road…. I must also mentioin
that several of these techniques have been taught to me by our friend,
Arizona Bruce. Thanks Bruce and group!
The retarder and flow additive are the ones I mentioned this morning
(Liquitex found in those fancy art supply stores). I
think you could go without the flow additive because that big bottle is
a
concentrate that gets mixed with water at a 20:1 ratio making it pretty
much…. Water anyway! I mean now that I have it I use it, but wonder
if it
important…. The retarder is nice as it slows the drying time and even
for
brushing makes the paint “lay down” better as Clay mentions in his
guides.
The air brush I have has the “Blue Point” name on it and I got it off
the
Snap-on truck. It’s OK I guess… It’s instructions say operating
pressure
15-50 psi and recommended pressure 25 psi. You can experiment for good
spray
without too much overspray. I seem to think 20 psi for some reason but
just
experiment. I like to remove the tape very soon (10-30 minutes) after
spraying (before paint pulls up with tape). Don’t pull tape up, pull it
backwards across PF surface so as not to pull your paint up. Wipe the
PF
down with naphtha right after that and you’d be surprised how far away
the over spray gets
that you can see on the paper towel.
And that’s all I have to say about that. (Say like Forest Gump)
GodSpeed, Karl.
by Chris — published on January 8th, 2006
Newsgroups: rec.games.pinball
Subject: Bill Heatherley’s, A Pinball Zone, playfield restoration pics
Hi all,
I’ve added an example of Bill Heatherly’s playfield restoration work, a
Bally Playboy playfield.
http://host300.ipowerweb.com/~pingeekc/pingeek/play.htm
For more restoration examples,
http://host300.ipowerweb.com/~pingeekc/pingeek/pingeek2/zone1.htm
or just check out http://www.pingeek.com
by Chris — published on January 1st, 2006
Got this off of RGP. Gives me hope for my work. If I could just get around to it.
by Chris — published on January 1st, 2006
From: “Karl”
Newsgroups: rec.games.pinball
Subject: Re: Just ruined another “Slather Coat” PF!
Bryan Kelly wrote:
> You’ve got some talent, dude. Good luck with the rest of it. :-)
Thanks much Bryan although it isn’t art or talent IMO… My X-old lady
laughed when she asked me to draw a cat, she said “Are you serious?
This looks like a three year old drew it!!?” I have NO artistic talent.
I do have a steady hand and LOTS of time. I don’t create art, I just
fill in/coppy what’s missing, just like paint by numbers. Nothing more
than that and mixing colors well.
The thing I hope people take away from my sharing this work is that
ANYONE can restore a PlayField, just:
Watch your TOP videos:
http://www.marvin3m.com/top
Read your Repair/Restoration Guides:
http://marvin3m.com/fix.htm
Take full advantage of all the resources here in RGP history and/or
feel free to ask before you step. After that:
Practice on old junk PF’s first until you get it right and feel
comfortable. “This ain’t rocket science people” Say like Emeral from
that cooking show… BAM!!!!! I’m still a newbie so if I can do it,
anyone can do it, If you say you can’t ever do that, you never will.
“You can’t have no in your heart” Say like Joe Dirt.
Happy New Year all, Karl.
by Chris — published on December 28th, 2005
Subject: SafeCracker Shop Pictures
From: “Steve Schukei”
Newsgroups: rec.games.pinball
Just finished out shopping a Safecracker. Here are some before and after
shots, along with very brief commentary.
http://www.1stcreditmc.com/pinball/photos/categories.php?cat_id=82
Steve Schukei
CARGPB 24
by Chris — published on December 28th, 2005
From: “Lou”
Newsgroups: rec.games.pinball
Subject: Re: remote battery holder
Nice look. I’m a great believer in this style of remote
battery holder. I use wood dowels - here’s a
page describing them in detail:
http://www.geocities.com/itsonlypinball/battery.htm
by Chris — published on December 25th, 2005
From: “pincredible” =
Newsgroups: rec.games.pinball
Subject: almost finished, FH restoration
whew, this restoration stuff is too much like work! ;)
http://webpages.charter.net/jmross/fh.html
thanks for lookin’
Jer
by Chris — published on December 13th, 2005
From: “John Wart, jr”
Newsgroups: rec.games.pinball
Subject: Re: Opinions on building a PF Rotisserie
I didn’t make my own, but I use the one I bought on a folding table.
I typically have 2 tables set up while I’m shopping out a pin.
The first table has the rotisserie and room for parts. As assemblies come
off, they are put on the table. The table is nice, because there are times
when you need more tools to remove an assembly than you have hands for - or
when you will need to set down your nutdriver to use 2 hands on 1 assembly.
The second table has the new parts that will be used (flipper parts, coil
sleeves), soldering iron and cleaning stuff like mean green, steel wool,
sandpaper, bleche wite, freeze spray to remove ramp decals etc). Not
everything gets cleaned on this table, of course. Some metal parts that get
regrained go upstairs to do in a sink, anything that fits in the tumbler
gets tumbled, ramps get cleaned with warm soapy water in a bathtub once I
freeze the decals off of them etc.
Everything gets cleaned on top of a nice towel as it moves from the
rotisserie table to the other table. Once the mechanism is rebuilt, I either
bolt it back to the playfield in the rotisserie, or set it aside on the
“clean” table. The 2 table approach works for me and allows me to be lazy -
I can put a nice chair between the 2 tables and sit while I work if I
desire, or can stand between them too.
The tables I got are those new fangled ones that are plastic instead of
wood. That’s nice, because the chemicals have no chance to permeate wood if
they get spilled, and it wipes clean very easily.
–
http://www.myhomegameroom.com
by Chris — published on December 13th, 2005
From: “BWAGNER5150″
Newsgroups: rec.games.pinball
Subject: Re: Coin Door Paper Insert for Coin Reject Button
Hi Mike, check out Mike’s Arcade. They have graphics files with the
inserts & they’re great. I use them on vids all the time. Here’s the
URL:
http://www.mikesarcade.com/arcade/labels.html
Ben
by Chris — published on December 13th, 2005
From: Rick Swanson
Newsgroups: rec.games.pinball
Subject: Good website for home powdercoating info
I found this site
http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemType=CATEGORY&itemID=458
and watched the instructional video
about powercoating at home. I thought
it was sort of neat so I’m passing it
along for those who might be interested.
–
Rick Swanson
Morristown, Tennessee
CARGPB6
by Chris — published on December 13th, 2005
Newsgroups: rec.games.pinball
Subject: CLEANING TIP: The Gonzo Wonder Sponge (TM)
(No, this isn’t a joke. I picked up a few of these about a year back, forgot
where I bought them, and finally happened across them again today.)
I’ve found a really useful “thing” for cleaning black pinball dust from the
bottom of playfields and from wire harnesses: the Gonzo Wonder Sponge. The
“sponge” is made of a rubber-like compound that grabs and holds soot, dust,
dirt, etc. The sponge is used dry; when it is saturated with dust you can
wash it with soap and water, let dry, and re-use repeatedly.
The Wonder Sponge is made by the same folks who make Goo Gone. Our local Home
Depot stocks these by the tack rags; you can also buy them online at
http://www.gonzocorp.com/homeprod.htm.
FYI,
Joseph “Tony” Dziedzic
by Chris — published on December 13th, 2005
From: “Karl”
Newsgroups: rec.games.pinball
Subject: Re: Tuchup Help needed
> flemmel@online.no wrote:
> > I trid that kind of tape on a white spot to see if the paint flaked and
> > it did
Cliffy wrote:
> then you cannot mask at all. >
Once again I must respectfully disagree Cliffy. One could sand the PF
with 600, shoot one or maybe two thin coats of (auto) clear. It has a
nice way of “soaking in” and bonding the cracked (but still adheared)
art. Sanding will have knocked off the loose stuff. After a quick 12
hour (or so) drying, scuff it up again, possibly with a DA sander if
you are VERY careful not to break through. This will give a very nice
surface to mask, air brush, hand touch-up, whatever you want…. Then
after all touch up, “slather” it with nice thick auto CC. Then you will
have enough thickness to sand it all perfectly flat without breaking
through, graduate up to 1,500 or 2,00o grit, buff, polish, looks like
glass! Credit to Arizona Bruce for this and many other great tips and
techniques.
As for the tape it self, They have blue plastic painters tape in auto
body supply stores. It is $6-$12 per roll and I’m way too cheap for
that. I spray foot powder onto a PF glass, tape electrical tape onto
the glass over the foor powder, cut it into strips lenth wise, bam!!!
Low stick flexible tape almost free! You can even adjust the low stick
by how much powder you spray. This one was all Karl! :)
Note: This is not a campaign for favorite CC product, I’m just not sure
how/if it would work with other types of clears. YMMV…..
GodSpeed, Please keep us posted.
Karl.
by Chris — published on December 13th, 2005
From: “beaver”
Newsgroups: rec.games.pinball
Subject: I built me a pinball coffee table
I have a spare populated Space Shuttle playfield and decided to store
it in a coffee table:
http://www.edcheung.com/album/album05/pinball/furniture.htm
The untold story is that I have a wife that has enough confidence in me
to allow me to cut up a piece of her matching living room set. Ama
lucky guy.
Edward Cheung
From: “DWGoett”
Subject: Re: I built me a pinball coffee table
www.pinventions.com
my buddy gets the carcasses of my parted games to build things.
he has a spiffy new logo - don’t know why he’s not using it.
Dan
by Chris — published on December 13th, 2005
From: someotherguy
Newsgroups: rec.games.pinball
Subject: Repair: missing ball guide wire
OK, I know this isn’t rocket science but it’s a problem that comes up from time
to time and I figured I’d take a few pics while I was dealing with it.
On this Pharaoh, I didn’t realize the ball guide was missing until the ball
bashed out a GI bulb : )
From: someotherguy
Newsgroups: rec.games.pinball
Subject: Repair: missing ball guide wire
OK, I know this isn’t rocket science but it’s a problem that comes up from time
to time and I figured I’d take a few pics while I was dealing with it.
On this Pharaoh, I didn’t realize the ball guide was missing until the ball
bashed out a GI bulb : )
www.someotherplace.com/pgb01.jpg shows the missing guide & gi socket
www.someotherplace.com/pgb02.jpg making a mockup w/mechanic’s wire
www.someotherplace.com/pgb03.jpg bend up a new one from an old guide
www.someotherplace.com/pgb04.jpg chop ‘er off with the Dremel
www.someotherplace.com/pgb05.jpg disco : )
by Chris — published on December 13th, 2005
From: “beaver”
Newsgroups: rec.games.pinball
Subject: Re: Verathane: Where to buy online?
This is where I bought my three cans from (price has gone up):
http://www.doityourself.com/store/6538623.htm
Feel free to ask about how to use it. Some write-up here:
http://www.edcheung.com/album/album05/pinball/playfield3.htm#clearcoat
If my page takes a while to load, you may want to hit “reload” for it
to go to the right anchor (images will be cached, so it will not take
long the second time).
Edward Cheung
