Scratch Out by Kit - used to clean in the tumbler, cheaper the flitz.

In a discussion on RGP wether automotive clear coating of playfields is causing ghosting (milky Chris Hutchins posted a PF before it was Clear coated, showing ghosting happens anyways.

http://christopherhutchins.com/gallery/album02/8_G
http://christopherhutchins.com/gallery/album19/7_G
http://christopherhutchins.com/gallery/album19/8_G

Pinball Universe has a nice listing of paints they sell for touchups to your cabinet.

A nice little run down on a Indiana Jones Shop Job

Subject: Re: does clearcoating darken touchups ?

mike hooker wrote:
> will clearcoating make it
> appear darker than not clearcoating?

Yes.

I have found, group please dorrect me if I’m wrong, if you let the
touch up dry thoroughly, wipe it quickly with liquid (Naphtha) just to
wet it, that is what it and the PF will look like cleared. No, the
Naphtha does not “change” (discolor/later) the color other than making
it wet and it will dry in several seconds, don’t over do it so as not
to remove the touch up.

Example, if you have micro cracks and you’re not sure if the clear will
“fill them in” and make them disappear, wipe with Naphtha, if they
disappear when wet then they’ll do the same under the clear… If they
don’t you’ll have to adress them possible by wiping with a dry/damp
Qtip or towel with paint of correct color.

This is my experience and opinion, I am NO expert, masters of the hobby
please advise accordingly.

Best, Karl.

Newsgroups: rec.games.pinball
Subject: Creature Touchup — How’d I do?

Open to comments, suggestions, etc…

http://www.michael-g.com/creature/

The aqua blue was tough as all hell to match…

Still debating on how to do the pink…

How’s it look? I was going off of pics on sites on the internet… If its
way off, can someone send me a good clean pic of the flipper area that I can
re-paint based off of?

Thanks,
MIKE

Picked up a dragons lair, and I’ve been slowly getting ready to re-store it as well.

Found a good resource: dragonslairproject.com

Newsgroups: rec.games.pinball
Subject: Tech: TZ third magnet project update

Instructions for adding third magnet driver and wiring completed
http://iobium.com/adding_the_extra_driver_transist.htm

Drilling template part tested, partial instructions completed
http://iobium.com/drilling_template.htm

Switch matrix optos tested and working

I have parts and plastics to finish this one off. I am really pleased
with the drilling template.

The IR tester derivative is also working nicely.

From: “Mark Clayton”
Newsgroups: rec.games.pinball
Subject: Re: TSSP & SP flipper button repair

After the cabinet is repaired, may I suggest that you then apply a set
of my clear vinyl flipper button cabinet protectors:
http://www.pinballpal.com/products/flipper/

They’re under $5 a set, and they’re made from removable vinyl rather than
permanent mylar so they’re less likely to cause more damage should they
need to be removed down the road.

If you can get a 1:1 scan of the flipper area, you could print it out on
sticky-back inkjet photo paper and then cover it with the clear protectors
to keep the repair from wearing off.

-Mark
–
http://pinballpal.com/

Tip provided by Treasurecove.

The op who sold me the BSD had a thing. A thing with snipping any wire they could. I’ve counted at least 4 snipped wires on these games so far. Cayle George was willing to help me find a part. Here’s so info if anyone else would like it.

From what I can see, the cables you are referring to go up to the top of the playfield and power the small coil that opens and closes the left gate for the “mist” multiball. This gate is located under the large left playfield houses plastic.

These pictures I took for you should help make things clear:

(The first picture is large, may take a few seconds to load)

http://www.caylegeorge.com/pinball/bsd1.jpg
http://www.caylegeorge.com/pinball/bsd2.jpg
http://www.caylegeorge.com/pinball/bsd3.jpg
http://www.caylegeorge.com/pinball/bsd4.jpg
http://www.caylegeorge.com/pinball/bsd5.jpg

On the way to the top of the playfield, the cable goes thru the hole on the left side of the playfield next to the “castle popper” bracket as shown in the picture.

Hope this helps, if not, give me more details about your problem. :)

Have a great night,

From:
Newsgroups: rec.games.pinball
Subject: Announce: Gottlieb System3 repair guide

Though i have to admit, this certainly isn’t
the most complete repair guide. But at this
time it’s as far as i can take it. There is a
very limited amount of information on
Gottlieb System 3 pinball games. And
you don’t see a lot of these games out there.
I have only repaired a limited number of them.
So my repair experiences are not as deep
as say the more common Williams and Bally
games. But here it is:

http://marvin3m.com/sys3

If anyone has any additional repair
information they can add, please email
me. I would love to hear about it and add it
to the guide. Hopefully this repair guide
will grow with time. I find after i do a
repair guide, the popularity of that system
of game rises a bit, which helps feed
the repair guide, making it better. I certainly
hope this is the case for Gottlieb system3
pinballs too.

I would like to add that Gottlieb System3
is an excellent pinball system. Certainly
on par (if not better) than Williams WPC.
Unfortunately the weakness is in the game
design and themes themselves. I mean
what were they thinking when they did
some of these strange titles (like Operation
Thunder and Shaq Attack).

cfh at provide dot net

From: “Beemus”
Newsgroups: rec.games.pinball
Subject: Re: Transporting a TZ?

If you do use cardboard beneath, keep in mind that the pin WILL slide
when you’re driving/stopping…take care to protect anything(pin
included) that you don’t want damaged or I’ve used bags of concrete to
keep it in one place.

Things I’ve seen, heard happen:
– Don’t forget your legs/bolts and backglass at the sellers…happens
all the time :).
– Don’t leave the key in the coin door, easy to break off if it hits
something.
– You MAY want to mark your legs(inside) and install them as they came
off…saves time re-leveling the machine…not critical but a tip.
– Use 2×4 or dowel to load/unload so as not to scratch up the
hatch/gate trim of your jeep…the cardboard may also do.

Most of all…TAKE YOUR TIME and ask for an assistant if needed. I
thought moving my TZ would be more of a hassle since it is a
widebody…was actually rather easy and was the first unload I did by
myself….ask for help, if available, for first time.

And for when you get it home…
For hard surfaces (concrete/tile but not your hardwoods): Home Depot or
similar will have them…not sure the exact name but i call them
3-wheeled moving skates. Triangular shape with recessed top that holds
pin feet/legs nicely. 3 roller wheels below. you can dance with your
pin with these if you’re into it. :)

For carpet/hardwoods:
magic slider or similar (home depot around here(seattle) has them and
they’re called Move Alls 8 for $10. Plastic disc with rubber/foam top
that pin legs to sink into. Slides on carpet like nothing else…I have
a deeper shag so I left these under my pins to protect the carpet as
well.

Lots of similar products out there but these are what I’ve used with
success.

Good luck and enjoy

Wonderful playfield restoration of an Eldorado

http://www.users.on.net/~bradandpam/restore/eldorado.html

From: “Bryan Kelly”
Newsgroups: rec.games.pinball
Subject: Re: ADVICE NEEDED: Which black Paint for inside Cabinet ?

I’m with Cayle on this one. Painters Touch semi gloss is a perfect
match.

Bryan (CARGPB 14)
http://usergallery.myhomegameroom.com/gallery/bspins

Home of the world renowned EXECUTIVE Pin Footie
http://usergallery.myhomegameroom.com/gallery/album79
Make your pin feel like one of the family.