During the week of the Rocky Mountain Pinball Showdown I was wandering around, trying to get as good a deal as I could from the different vendors at the show (buying pinballs is a prime example, no shipping). While perusing the floor I ran into John Detweiler (aka Sir Tiltsalot) and his new Playfield Rotisserie where I was expecting Pinrestore to be. I had already bought myself a Donnie Barnes Rotisserie so I wasn’t that excited about Johns. As he handed me the flyer and showed me the rotisserie I was a bit more interested. I then started to play, throughout the day I would come back to the John’s example, and I admit, I was impressed by the look of the rotisserie. At that point I decided to get one. I mean, with new playfields being created, I would need a second rotisserie, right?

As soon as I got back home, I sent John an email telling him I wanted one of his rotissiriies. After a wait I finally got mine.
MiscPictures/Restoration/RotisierrieTilts/IMG_8051.JPGMiscPictures/Restoration/RotisierrieTilts/IMG_8065.JPG

My first impressions of the packaging was that I was surprised that the entire rotisserie was inside of one box. The box was sturdy, and as I shook the box, you could not hear any rattling or loose parts. So, like a kid in a candy store, I eagerly went about opening up the box.
MiscPictures/Restoration/RotisierrieTilts/IMG_8070.JPG
Opening the box revealed that John had firmly packed the rotisserie in packing materials, as well as included all the miscellaneous parts and instructions in a separate envelope
MiscPictures/Restoration/RotisierrieTilts/IMG_8075.JPG
As I continued to open up the package I found that all the parts of the rotisserie had been tie wrapped together. Remember how I said this package didn’t make *any* noise when I shook it. Johns excellent packaging work can be credited with that.
MiscPictures/Restoration/RotisierrieTilts/IMG_8077.JPG
Inside the parts packaging were the instruction sheet, a parts sheet, clamps and tighten down screws.
MiscPictures/Restoration/RotisierrieTilts/IMG_8079.JPG
At this point, I just wanted to start ripping it apart to see how well it would hold the Playfield that I’ve had out of a machine, well, since forever, my TZ playfield (planning on repairing and clear coating it, but, well, life got in the way)
MiscPictures/Restoration/RotisierrieTilts/IMG_8087.JPG
Taking the wiring snips, I removed all the tie wraps and completely ignored the instructions that John had sent (not to bright on my part).
MiscPictures/Restoration/RotisierrieTilts/IMG_8095.JPG
I did find that I really like the way he built the sliding base with the tightening screws. The construction felt very sturdy.
MiscPictures/Restoration/RotisierrieTilts/IMG_8090.JPGMiscPictures/Restoration/RotisierrieTilts/IMG_8094.JPGMiscPictures/Restoration/RotisierrieTilts/IMG_8097.JPG

After a few issues, I was finally able to get the rotisierrie up and looking like it was ready for a playfield
MiscPictures/Restoration/RotisierrieTilts/IMG_8108.JPG
So now is the time of truth. I grabbed the TZ playfield, and started putting it into the rotisierrie. At this point I realized that this really isn’t a one man job, with either my Donnie Barnes or Tiltsalot rotisierrie. Eventually I had the Playfield in place.
MiscPictures/Restoration/RotisierrieTilts/IMG_8121.JPGMiscPictures/Restoration/RotisierrieTilts/IMG_8113.JPG

My initial impressions were:
The lack of paint made it look very industrial (and shiny, and I am attracted to shiny things, or I wouldn’t be in this hobby)
Very utilitarian
Well thought out

If you are in the market for a Rotisserie, you can’t go wrong with this one.

And if you wonder about the build quality of the rotisserie, take a look at this.

I just found via RGP that Allen at Treasurecove has created these Label kits that are *custom* made for your pin.

So, when I go from trying to be a CARGPB to a Anal collector, then I’ll be ordering up a mess load of these.

I usually take the last few weeks of the year off to work on my pins. I
managed to get the BSD up and running (which my family loves) and then I
moved onto the White Water I had just picked up a few months ago as a deal
along with a STTNG.

The STTNG is in pretty good condition.

This WH20? Cab is beat up (and soft), wiring is hacked, and the inserts
are doing this funky thing where they are lower than the rest of the playfield.

It’s a mess, but I love the game, so, I’ll nurse this one back to at least
semi health. After years of neglect in Germany, this pin just needs some TLC.

Oh, and I found this nice little “Wannabe” fuse. Guess when the fuse blew
the OP just decided to solder a wire. I was checking the fuses and was
surprised when I pulled this sucker out

Here

Some scary Electrical Work

Here

Misc wear and tear:

here and
here

Just thought I’d announce that shaggy and norm have released another dvd

Subject: Announce: TOP8 now available

The latest “This Old Pinball” TOP#8 is now
available from
http://marvin3m.com/top

This new DVD video is over 2 1/2 hours
long and covers EM ball bowler and
shuffle alley repair, restoration and history.
Over 20 different coin operated bowling
games are shown being played, in
addition to doing a full restoration of a
1963 Chicago Coin Grand Spare Lite
ball bowler. Cost of the video is $8.

There is a free video trailer available in small
(modem) and large (broadband) formats.
Also a MPG version for non-windows
users. The trailer is about 2 minutes
long and will give you an idea of what
TOP8 is all about.

Also there is an informational page on
TOP8 at
http://marvin3m.com/top/top8.htm

Thanks!

Buy some dvds.

It’s for a good cause.

The subject of POTC, and how to make $$$ to get one came up on RGP and this was the following conversation quoted from icetre

I’m going to be pretty in the hole when POTC comes in, and some have
inquired about my restore services. Rather than reply individually, I
figured I’d post my rates and descriptions directly.
Obviously since I’m in the hole, I prefer CASH, but I will consider
trades, and much like I’m doing for Marcus, I’m willing to talk about
working on multiple machines, for a trade worth more than a single
service being rendered. IE, I’ll decent restore 3 machines for your
demo man.

Prices are estimates: But this isn’t a real business for me, so you can
be pretty sure it’s going to be whatever I tell you. IE decent restore
of a Cirqus, I’ll estimate at $500, and that’s the price you’ll pay. If
it is going to change for some reason, I will call and inform you of
the problem, the reason for the change in price, and change in price. But
within reason, I’m pretty fair, and if I said 500, and it takes an
extra hour, oh well.

If you’ve been to Marcus’s house, you’ve seen some examples of my work.

His getaway (no cab work was done) is a fairly decent shop, and the
Whodunnit, was a spot clean.

Obviously, the better the starting platform, the better (and cheaper)
the results will be. I in no way claim, I can take that auction
junkyard dog, you’ve purchased, and turn it in to HUO. I’m a hard worker, and a
talented engineer. But I’m no miracle worker. ;)

I usually charge 500 for a decent restore. If you want the CH
treatment, without clearcoating, I charge 1k, and with clear tack
another 500 (hey it’s a *LOT* of work to get all those parts off the
board so you can spray.)

For a Spot clean, and shop, I’d have to see what the deal with the
table was, but I’d go 150~200 for something average. Figure 35-50 for parts
depending on what all you want done.

The decent restore is a fairly decent deal for you, it’s a terrible
deal for me, considering in my main line of business I make $50/hour, and in
this sideline I make like $2/hour. ;)

Usually included in a decent restore:

Ball shooter and kickout lanes sanded clean, and repaired, refinished
to a nice butter soft shine using a 30 coat process (usually 40-50 before
I’m satisfied.)
average repair on upkicker holes (spider hole, slot machine, etc) is
included, but as this requires art repair, and the art repair is best
effort
All mechanics repaired (parts extra)
All topside hardware tumbled
Flame polish ramps
Full teardown, of the playfield, and cleaning of every topside part, 3
step polish of the playfield to a mirror like shine, rebuild.
Small cabinet problems, (ie chips, delamination at the corners, etc)
repaired, but major carpentry is extra.
Ball trough, cleaned and burrs filed

Also much like CH, I take pictures, and usually for my convience, it’s
just easier to put them up on my website, which you can access from
home, giving you the benefit of seeing the progress on your pin as it
is restored. These pictures remain on the website, but are also burned to
cd-rom, and you recieve with your finished pin. This is a great asset,
as if you ever need to know what color a wire leading to the 3rd
flipper coil lug is red or orange, you have a reference.

*Also I have some general policies*

Any part that ends up in my hand, ends up disassembled and cleaned
any part that remains on the board untouched does not. (pop bumpers are
a usual example, they almost never get totally rebuilt, cause they
don’t usually need it.)

EVERY part on the topside is disassembled and cleaned in a restore,
always.

This is a best effort service, and I as such can not be held
responsible, if say a part that’s irreplaceable falls apart in my
hands. (never happened before on big stuff though I have lost for instance, a
pop bumper spoon, and I’ve cracked a plastic once. Just making sure I
limit my liability. I mean, this is 10 year old PET plastic we’re
talking about here, it can be very brittle in many cases.)

I don’t transport the tables, you bring them to me, in my shop in
I’m willing to transport but that’s extra and best effort
(never hurt a table, yet…) .

I don’t regrain metal ramps. If it fits in the polisher great if not it
gets cleaned and that’s it

I don’t do EM’s

I don’t take any responsibility for mylar removal. I’ll do it, but you
sign a contract that I’m not responsible no matter what happens mylar
removal and cleanup is extra. It can be a lot of work also (TZ full
mylar takes about 5 nerve wracking hours to 1 to pull and about 4
scraping every surface with a pool of goo gone and a plastic razor
blade)

Decent restore is can be applied to most pins, except TZ. TZ is the
biggest nightmare of a shop job I’ve ever done. Seriously. It was like
3 in one. I’ll only do it as a Full restore, but then you get sanding,
interior cab repainting, and pretty much every surface cleaned, wire
loom cleaning, all parts, top and bottom clean and repaired, boards
cleaned, etc etc etc.

Insert Leveling is extra Again, no liability, best effort.

I’ll do minor PF touchups, but I’m no artist.. If your really picky,
you might be better off sending the board to a restorer/clearcoater, such
as Bill Davis. I feel I do a serviceable job in most cases, but I can’t
repair major problems, Only minor spots. I’ll tell you if I can do it
on a case by case basis. I have examples of what I can do. Once again,
best effort.

Cab Decals are extra $300 plus the label for the whole cab, quote for
single pieces

Cab stenciling is 500 plus the stencil

So what does your shop job entail?

I am planning on picking up a Iawata Airbrush off of Ebay (With Compressor)

Found a nice little Tutorial on how to use the airbrush.

For all of your playfield restoration needs

Testors Complete Airbrush System

Coupon Code: PC7110

Make sure you uncheck the club.

In RGP the question about a playfield overlay and auto clear were brought up. The awnser:

Yes you can and should clear coat an overlay if you want it to last. I
personally use clear Bulldog Adhesion Promoter. It is basically a clear
plastic primer. Works great and you should be able to get it at an
automotive body shop supply store. Spray on a couple coats and wet sand with
800 paper before spraying on the automotive clear.

Dave Pauk sent an e-mail letting me know he has some photos of the playfield restoration.

http://usergallery.myhomegameroom.com/gallery/dmp65

Look in the Spirit of 76 folder,pages 5-7.

Dave Pauk Posted this Playfield restoration tips to RGP Good info

I’ve recently embarked upon reviving the playfield on my SO76. When I
first got the game 2 years ago, I did some spot touch-ups to worn areas
with acrylics and Varathane and it looked okay, but now the playfield
is at a point where it needs a full clearcoat. Plus, I was
never really satisfied with the color matches on the touch-ups I did.
FWIW, I’ll be using Varathane for my full clearcoat.

Note: Thanks to using acrylic paint and Varathane intially, I was able
to easily remove my previous spot touch-ups with Goof-Off without
harming the original playfield artwork.

Like many, I use the information on the Marvin site as my guide for
stuff like this, so I’d like to share my experience as a supplement to
the excellent info Clay has already provided.

Tip 1. As per the Marvin site, I was using craft acrylics that can be
bought at Walmart or Home Depot. I’m very good with paint matching but
what I found is that I could easily match the “shade” but not the
intensity of the factory artwork. It turns out this is due to the paint
I was using.

The colors on SO76 are very intense blue, red, and yellow. No matter
what I tried with the craft paints, it always ended up looking dull (
not because of the flat finish, but rather the intensity of the color).

At the suggestion of others, I went out and bought artists acrylics (
the brand I used was Liquitex) and with some slight color adjustments
the touch-ups came out perfect! Apparently, these paints have a higher
pigment load. Well, there’s no comparison to the craft acrylics, these
paints are excellent for matching the original screened colors on a
playfield. Yeah, a few more dollars but totally worth it.

Tip 2: To do my paint matching, I used a small piece of wood. I found
this helps with getting the correct match because the paint looks
different on various surfaces. I was using a piece of white cardboard
and clear plastic initially, but found that when the paint was applied
to the worn areas on the playfield, it wasn’t the same shade as on the
cardboard. So, since the touch-ups are going over wood, it makes sense
to use a wood piece for testing the paint match.

Tip 3: As we all know, acrylics dry darker. Having said that, I think
it’s also important to apply your clearcoat to the paint match on your
test piece (if you’re using Varathane) because this also changes how
the color looks. The last thing anyone wants is to touch up an entire
playfield, and then realizing the touch-ups look “off” after
clearcoating the whole playfield.

Tip 4: The center kickout hole on my game was chewed up around the
edges, giving a jagged look to the bevel. I found that a great way to
smooth this out is to use a couple of layers of Krazy Glue as filler,
sand it out, and then repaint the edge of the hole. To reproduce the
look of wood, I used a light tan color as my base, then drybrushed a
lighter shade of tan on top, and then finally drybrushed a median shade
of tan. The end result looks just like wood. This drybrush technique
can also be used to “freshen up” other small areas of wood
grain if it has darkened quite a bit over time. This effect still lets
the woodgrain show through, but gives it a lighter appearance.

Tip 5: This may be up for debate, but rather than sand the playfield
first and then do touch-ups, I’m doing touch-ups first with the
acrylics and brushing over them with a thin coat of Varathane before I
sand. This ensures two things…that I have no worries about whether
I’ve achieved the correct paint match before spraying the whole
playfield, and also protects the touch-ups when I do lightly sand the
playfield before spraying. I should mention that I’m leaving the black
outlines until after sanding since I don’t have to worry about matching
this color.

Tip 6: If you have a digital camera, take a few pictures of your
touch-ups to make sure they’re matched correctly before doing the full
clearcoat. Cameras pick up nuances in the colors that you may or may
not see in regular light. There’s been a couple of times where I swear
the match is dead-on, then taken a picture only to find out it’s a
little too light or too dark. The
camera does not lie. If it’s not right, dab a small artists brush with
Goof-off, remove and re-do.

Plus, you’ll know for sure that your touch-ups won’t stick out like a
sore thumb when you share photos of your game with your pin buddies ;-)

Anyway, just some suggestions that may help others as they do this sort
of thing. If anyone’s interested, I’ll post some pics in the near
future.

Dave
http://usergallery.myhomegameroom.com/gallery/dmp65

He was then asked if cleaning of the playfield, which he replied.

Yeah, I did the Magic Eraser (with alcohol) and Naptha wipedown on the whole playfield prior to doing the touch-ups. Keep in mind, I’m only suggesting you cover the touch-up area with clearcoat initially to ensure color match, not the entire playfield. Once you’re satisfied with the result of your color matches, then lightly sand the touch-upped areas, Naptha the entire playfield again, tack cloth, and
then spray the full playfield clearcoat

In a discussion on RGP wether automotive clear coating of playfields is causing ghosting (milky Chris Hutchins posted a PF before it was Clear coated, showing ghosting happens anyways.

http://christopherhutchins.com/gallery/album02/8_G
http://christopherhutchins.com/gallery/album19/7_G
http://christopherhutchins.com/gallery/album19/8_G

From:
Newsgroups: rec.games.pinball
Subject: Re: Best way to repair playfield damage

Lensman wrote:
> Going to have to fix this wear mark as part of restoring this pin.
> This is my first cosmetic restoration so I’m looking for some ideas on
> how you more experienced folks repair damage like this.
>
> http://www.pitapeople.com/sttng/sttng_playfield.jpg

This should not be too hard to fix.
The black is easy. black is pretty
much black. but you have to deal
with that light blue. i would use
water acrylics, get the best matched
color. then re-paint the entire worn
blue area. this way you don’t have
to deal with matching so close.
The lavender you don’t have to touch
up as the black around its edge
will fix that.

after that is done, clearcoat the
playfield. if you’re not up for that,
you can do the “water-thin super
glue wipe and roll” trick. That would
work pretty good. After you’ve done
that perhaps you could fill the area
in thin layers or water-thin super
glue, build it up, and block sand
it level with 2000 grit. polish with
novus2.  done.