Archive for November, 2005

WH20 Whitewater Bigfoot Ramp Repair

From: “Rondogg” Newsgroups: rec.games.pinball
Subject: ARCHIVE: WH20 Whitewater Bigfoot Ramp Repair

The bigfoot ramp on White Water sure takes a lot of abuse!

Here is a great site for modifying your Bigfoot ramp on Whitewater to
prevent airballs from hitting the much abused switch (click on link and
scroll down) - this modification has been discussed in the past here
but there are some new folks (including me) who recently purchased WH20
who may not have seen this. This is not my idea nor my website. I
tried this modification and I haven’t had even close to one airball.

http://lostinthezone.netfirms.com/

By the way, the plastic support for the switch on my ramp has
completely broken off, there is nothing to attach it to. I have a mod
to hold the switch using a couple of easy to find metal brackets
screwed into the back wall and into the body of the ramp. It is
completely covered by the Boulder plastic and looks to be a permanent
fix. If you want to see pictures of this fix, please email me.

Of course, you can always just purchase a new ramp when they become
available in the next few weeks…

Ron

This Old Pinball TOP#7 Teaser video!

From: cfh@
Newsgroups: rec.games.pinball
Subject: This Old Pinball TOP#7 Teaser video!

New TOP dvd video available at Pinball Expo 2005 or via mail for $8.
Teaser video:

http://marvin3m.com/top/top7fast.htm DSL/cable
http://marvin3m.com/top/top7slow.htm modem

More TOP information:
http://marvin3m.com/top

Best order to shop a pin in?

From: “John Wart, jr” Newsgroups: rec.games.pinball
Subject: Re: Best order to shop a pin in?

For some unknown reason, I always seem to do the playfield first.

Of course, I make sure everything works 100% before I undo a connector or
remove a part - including all board work. Otherwise, you might not know
whether something was broken during the restoration or before you start.

I pull the playfield and load it in the rotisserie and start disassembling.
I end up with a blank playfield and a couple tables full of parts.
Everything gets cleaned apart and carefully reassembled.

I keep a plain ole bedsheet that I put over the playfield in the rotisserie
to keep dust and crap off the playfield while I’m working on things, since
they take months at a time it seems.

I do tend to do similar things at a time - clean all plastics and plastic
ramps at the same time, which includes everything from the flat plastics to
star posts to clear ramps that get the decals frozen off and flame polished,
then do metal lane guides and disassemble all the mechanisms with metal
brackets ad clean/polish them at the same time. All the posts etc get
tumbled

Then, I reassemble the playfield. I find if everything isn’t clean before I
start to reassemble the playfield, I end up getting dirt on the rings, or
transferring dirt from something that was dirty to something that was clean.

Once the playfield is reassembled, the sheet goes over the playfield until
the cabinet is done. I have about 10 different sets of cab decals here, yet
I haven’t gotten around to installing any of them yet! That might change the
order of operations.

Another thing that might change the order of operations is if the playfield
needs to be sent off for clear or repair - you’d have a couple months to
kill while the playfield is getting cleared, so you could pretty much be
ready for it when it gets returned with everything cleaned, the cabinet done
etc.

But, from talking to others, it seems just about everyone has a system, and
they do what works for them.


http://www.myhomegameroom.com

Indiana Jones: The Pinball Adventure Restoration Project

From: David Schulpius <>
Newsgroups: rec.games.pinball
Subject: Indiana Jones: The Pinball Adventure Restoration Project

Hi All,
I’ve recently completed the playfield portion of a restoration to an IJ
I’m doing for a RGP member. If you’d like to take a look at how the
finished clearcoated job turned out please visit my web site at:
http://home.wi.rr.com/pinballpassion/ and click on the “Indiana Jones:
The Pinball Adventure Restoration Project” link. I’ll be up loading the
whole finished restored game pics when I get it finished in a few
weeks. They’ll include new cabinet decals installation.

Have fun and I’ll see some of you at Expo in Chicago!
Dave

Arcade Carpet

From: “kirb”
Newsgroups: rec.games.pinball
Subject: Re: Arcade Carpet

icetre wrote:
> What’s the best source for arcade carpet?
>
> Adam

I got this from my local Carpet One:
http://www.geocities.com/kirbseepe5/gameroom2-0518b.JPG

The pic sucks, but it is a dark blue with light brown and maroon
squares.

It’s not too loud, hides spills, very easy to maintain, bounces back
from leg levelers in a day, overall great carpet.

Downside? it takes a lot of light to make the room bright. One thing
you may want to think about. Keeping the room bright is only done with
lighter carpet. I should have went crazy and put the wall sconces about
3 feet off the floor pointing up, but that is in my next life…

Kirb

From: Robert Winter Newsgroups: rec.games.pinball
Subject: Re: Arcade Carpet

http://www.astrocarpetmills.com/

I have the Galaxy pattern in my gameroom.

Robert

Basic Restoration Awnsers

From: Steve C
Newsgroups: rec.games.pinball
Subject: Re: Basic Restoration Questions
Reply-To: steve@

as Cliffy, Ray, Frenchy, Scott, and many others have pointed out on
your various questions:

1. I use a Jet buffer to clean my metal parts that are too big for a
tumbler. suppose you could use the buffer for the bolts but I wouldn’t
do it. just get a tumbler.

2. I use 80 grit sandpaper with an orbital sander until the ball marks
are gone. it will leave small circles due to the orbital sander, but
then I follow up with 220 grit wet/dry and sand it lengthwise to kind
of get a grain. I’ve also had good luck with the red scotch-brite
stuff instead of using 220 grit. I recently tried the green
scotch-brite I got at Sam’s Club that comes in a package of about 10
and it too worked pretty good. After the orbital sander and the
scotch-brite, you can always use a buffer wheel to make it shiny if
you don’t like the grained look.

3. I use Krylon semi-gloss black and it comes out looking pretty good.
just mask off the area you don’t want to get over-sprayed and you’ll
be OK. watch out around the flipper buttons that you don’t hit them
with the paint (I unscrew the contacts so it isn’t a problem and then
wrap masking tape around them). If I find grooves cut in to the side
of the game box I use bondo and a blade to fill in the area (can get
it from Home Depot too) . the only problem is that it will sometimes
come out looking smoother than the surrounding wood which makes it a
little more noticeable. of course the thing that’s cutting in to the
side of the cabinet will no doubt cut it again unless you figure out
what it is and stop it.

4. I use latex enamel gloss black that I got from Home Depot in a
quart can. Didn’t realize there were so many Blacks out there, so I
just picked the one that looked the blackest and had the guy mix me a
quart. I put it on a rag and rub it in to the areas where the paint
is gone. if this doesn’t work, I use a fine latex paint brush and
paint it on. it will flatten out before it dries so the brush marks
seem to disappear. the rag method seems to work pretty well for
blending.

5. I first get the rust off using any number of products that may be
laying around. A Must For Rust and Lightning works well but I’ve even
used Naval Jelly to get the rust off. Just don’t leave the stuff on
too long. I use Turtle Wax chrome polish on both the outside and
inside of the legs. after getting them clean, I run them on the buffer
as well and it shines them up like new. the Jet buffer I use is
somewhat low speed since it’s really for woodworking.

Just watch out using a buffer wheel since that thing can snatch the
metal right out of your hand if you aren’t careful. due to the
rotation of the wheel and the angle of attack. it usually bounces it
off the floor or slings it across the garage towards someone that is
invariably looking the other way. my Jet buffer has a stiff wire wheel
on one side and a cloth wheel on the other. I only use the white rouge
for shining stuff up. will make most things look smooth as a mirror,
especially pop bumper rings.

Some folks use Bleche-White to clean up the cabinet but I haven’t
tried that yet so don’t know if it’s legit or not.

hope this helps,

stevebo